Backcountry skis (sometimes also called touring skis or classic) wider than other cross country skis. They often have metal edges and usually are too wide for groomed classic (parallel) tracks. They have scales on the bottom in the middle section of the ski so when you push off of one leg you don’t slide backwards. They are good in deeper snow, for hut to hut skiing or other backcountry fun. See the two pictures below.

 

Here are some happy backcountry skiers from Santa Fe coming out on our Pajarito groomed ski trail system after playing in the deep snow further out on Canada Bonita. Notice their warmer and heavier gear, wider skis and bigger boots.

Here is Paul Graham using his invisible backcountry skis to help pack our barely there trails after a big snow storm!

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Classic skis are used for classic or diagonal technique using the parallel track (you can ski outside the track of course, but it’s easier to ski in the track and that’s what it’s for). They are skinnier than backcountry skis, although both are sometimes called ‘classic’ because the same technique is used to ski on them - so make sure to specify if you want classic but NOT backcountry/touring when buying renting. These are usually used on groomed trails with set classic track for both fun and racing.

Some have scales on the middle of the base (bottom) and are called waxless. The scales allow you to push off of one ski without sliding backwards (that’s ‘kick’). These skis are great all around, don’t require waxing (although they would benefit from some glide wax on the non scaly part of the base) and so are particularly good for beginners or very occasional skiers.

The skis without scales are called waxables. They require kick wax – it’s a sticky substance you put on the base of the ski in the middle (area called kick zone) so when you push off of one leg your ski won’t slide backwards – that’s called ‘having kick’. You need different kick wax for different snow conditions – so read up on waxing if you are going to invest in these skis.  

Classic skis range in length and camber (if you put a ski on the floor base down you’ll see it has a curve that lifts the middle of the ski off the floor). Your ski length and camber depend on your height, weight and ski ability.

Too long of a ski goes faster and is harder to control. So for beginner it is best to err on the shorter side but do check out size chart recommendations to start.

Too much camber means you are too light for the ski and your weight does not compress the ski enough for the scales or kick wax to touch the snow and allow you to push off or kick. So for beginner it is better to error on too soft of a ski – too soft means you weigh on the upper end of what the ski is recommended for.

If you are wondering what is the downside of too soft you have to realize why is there camber in the first place? Well, if it doesn’t let you slide backwards by being too sticky or rough (scales) it probably will also slow your forward progress. To avoid that, if you get the perfect camber for you and have good technique you will be able to push down with all your weight on one leg to get kick, but when you are just gliding forward your weight will be evenly distributed between the two skis and the camber will lift the kick zone off the snow and so it will not drag and slow you down.

Some classic track and skier pictures are below.

Here is shot of a freshly set classic track on the lower road of the Pajarito Nordic Ski trails (this is mixed use part of the trail). This is on Dec 31^st 2006. The wide area on the right is for skate skiing.

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 Here is a happy skier learning to classic on the Enchanted Forest XC trails up in Red River, NM. Notice the skinnier skis and lighter gear as compared to the backcountry people in pictures above. She is actually wearing combi boots – they are made to work for both, classic and skate, but some say they don’t work well for either, so there are benefits to getting specific boots for each style if you prefer. Behind her is a more proficient classic skier quickly catching up.

Skate skis look similar to classic skis, but normally are a bit shorter (than the classic skis would be for the same height person) and don’t have any kick zone. The reason they don’t have a kick zone is that you propel yourself forward not by kicking straight back like in classic but by pushing off to the side and forward on each leg in a manner of a speed skater on ice. Skating is done on a groomed surface that’s much wider than the classic track – you need the room since you glide to the sides and forward (like an ice speed skater). In the spring when the snowfields crust up and are hard enough on the top so you don’t sink you can skate ski anywhere on the smooth snow crust – it’s a lot of fun! You can ski all over the Canada Bonita meadow without any trails!

Here I am learning to skate ski in Crested Butte, CO. Notice the skate boots with supportive high plastic in the ankle area. Also note how much space skate skiing requires on the trail compared to the narrow classic track.

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As you can imagine, there are skate boots, classic boots and backcountry boots to go with all the different skis above. To make things more complicated different brand boots fit into different kind of bindings on the skis – so those have to match. Be careful if you are buying/renting skis from one place and boots from another!

Backcountry boots are usually bigger, heavier, sturdier, warmer and less flexible than classic or skate boots, which is great since you are out in deep snow, usually with a backpack and likely moving at a hiker’s pace in cold temperatures.

Classic race boots are smaller and lighter and don’t provide much ankle support as most of your leg movements are directly forward and parallel to each other. They allow more flexibility in your ankle – meaning if you were to stand straight and then proceed to bend your ankles (so knees a little too) you’ll have no trouble going as far forward as your personal ankle flexibility allows without the boot impeding you. This is to allow for most efficient kick.

Skate race boots provide a lot of lateral stability (a bit like a figure skate boot) since there is a lot of force out to the sides when you push off. They have less forward flexibility than classic boots and are usually higher on your ankle.

Combi boots are made to use for classic OR skate skiing. Some people like them and it is cheaper and convenient to only have one pair of boots. I started with Salomon combi boots and would say that mine were way too soft for skate and a bit stiff for classic, but both were doable. I prefer separate boots for each style as my skating really needs all the support I can get from a boot J.

Classic poles are shortest and usually reach up to your armpit when you are standing straight up.

Skate poles are taller and come up to somewhere between your chin and your mouth.

Wax is important for all your skis, even the waxless kind. It keeps the bases from drying up and can make a big difference in how fast you go in a race. But even if you don’t race, I’m sure you will agree that skiing on skis that glide better is much more fun than those that stick to snow and make you feel like you are walking rather than skiing. Here are some brands and their sites – check them out as they each have basic information on waxing (using their own products of course). Oh, and don’t get scared off if it seems too complicated – as with everything there are people really into this, particularly those who race. If you are just starting skiing, you will only need the basic wax for ski maintenance (to keep them from drying out, gliding better and lasting longer):

FastWax http://www.skifastwax.com/ This is a small family operated business in Minnesota and they make all the wax themselves. Their products work extremely well and are much more affordable than the comparable waxes from other brands. Made in the US!

Swix www.swixsport.com

Toko http://www.tokous.com/

See the link on our home page to a list of local places to rent or buy from as well as a list of some Nordic-knowledgeable online stores.